When hunting pallets be on the lookout for standard pallets with unbroken boards. Also watch out for stains. Often stains are oils or other undesirable substances. They may even be a clue that something nasty was once carried by the pallet. I even ran across some pallets that had been saturated with pee and found out a little too late.

Heavier pallets tend to be hardwood which is much harder to work with than pine of fir pallets. They are also harder to dismantle. Even the nails in hardwood pallets seem harder to cut through. I suspect that people who build hardwood pallets fund that they have to use stronger nails and staples simple to get them into the wood.

Hardwood is much denser than pine and fir and after a little while you’ll be able to spot it quickly. Start by simply looking at the wood grain. Hardwood is tight and dense. You can also try poking your fingernail into to wood. If its easy to leave a mark it’s probably not a hardwood pallet. Try the same on a pine pallet and you’ll probably leave an impression. If you have a choice use soft wood pallets. If you have a mix use the hardwood pallets lower in the structure to keep the center of gravity lower.

Also keep an eye out for oversize pallets. They are great for their long 2x4s which you’ll want for top plates, window bucks and door bucks. They can also be very helpful in making a roof or floor stronger.

Here’s the clincher… if you have access to lumber and don’t need to use free building materials use normal lumber. You’re little house will go up much much faster! If lumber is unavailable and pallets are plentiful then the information on this website will be very useful.

Tools

Generator – Power tools need electricity. If you don’t have anywhere to plug into you’ll need a generator and fuel.

Reciprocating Saw – This tool an absolute must for building with pallets. It’s perfect for dismantling pallets, cutting openings for window and doors, trimming down pallets, etc. The stronger the better and the more spare blades you have on hand the better. Many shipping pallets are made from hardwood which is very hard to work with and very hard on tools.

Drill – I prefer corded drills that plug into the wall (or generator) than those weak little battery operated dudes. All the cordless drills I’ve had seem to sit in the charger more than they sit in my hands. When working with hardwood pallets you’ll also quickly learn that the extra torque from a real corded drill is needed. Also have a few good driver bits and drill bits handy.

Circular Saw – A good worm drive or regular circular saw is a great help. If you plan to cut pallets with it have several spare blades handy. Hardwood pallets eat circular saw blades for lunch.

Clamps – A couple of lightweight bar clamps are really handy when working with pallets. For example when you want to screw two pallets together it’s nice to clamp them together first. Screws have a hard time getting a bite into hardwood so when the screw enters the second 2×4 it usually just pushed it away instead of biting into it. When you clamp the pallets together it gives the screw the extra help it needs to make it into the second pallet.

Framing Square – A large framing square will help you keep things strait, especially the window and door bucks.

Tape Measure – One good 25′+ tape measure is always handy.

Pencils – You absolutely need a pencil. Carpenters pencils are better because they make bigger and darker lines and don’t break as easy.

Level – A good bubble level is nice to have but unless you’re building on a flat surface you’ll find your tape measure and framing square the best tools for keeping things strait.

Pry Bar – These are handy when you have a difficult pallet nail. Although the reciprocating saw will do much faster work on nails.

Hammer – I don’t use my hammer much because I’m screwing everything together but it’s always useful to have a hammer.

Staple Gun – For attaching roofing felt and/or house wrap. Be sure to have plenty of staples that match the type of staple gun you buy. You’ll also notice they come in a variety of lengths. I usually get a medium length staple when in doubt.

Supplies

Screws – You’ll need pounds of 2 and 3 inch screws.

Bolts, Nuts, & Washers – 4 inch and longer. Always use washers on both ends to keep the nut and bolt head from pulling through the wood.

Roofing Felt (tar paper) – You won’t need too much; just enough to cover the roof and maybe the walls if you want an extra seal and can’t find house wrap.

House Wrap – If you want that added seal. Someone tipped me off to a great place to find free house wrap material. Visit a lumber yard when the lumber shipments come in. They tend to use it to wrap the truck loads while in transit and just throw it away.

Caulk and Building Adhesive – Adhesive is good if you want to add more strength to any of your wood connections. Caulk is good for sealing up the house after you sheet it.

Other?

If you can think of something I forgot please post a comment and I’ll update the list. Thanks!